Tortillas, more than a Mexican staple
Did you know that the Aztecs ate tortillas?
Big ones too. From the size of the grills found in archeological zones, it seems there were some up to a foot in diameter.
You have probably not given it much consideration, but it was quite a scientific process that turned corn into tortillas.
First, someone had to realize that corn could be dried. After corn has matured, some of it is picked in its early stage to be eaten fresh. This is called elote and nowadays is eaten on the cob, in tamales, in a sort of corn bread called torta de elote, as esquites which are fresh corn with the herb epazote and poblano chilies and in other vegetables dishes and stews.
The rest of the corn is broken (doblado); in other words, the corn is broken at the stalk and left hanging to dry. When dry, the leaves are used for animal feed, as thatching for roofs, for clothing and even for making dolls.
The dried kernels are removed from the cobs and the cobs are used as fuel. Now once you have a dried kernel, what do you do with it?
The hull surrounding the kernel is impossibly hard and almost indigestible, even after being soaked in water. What could be the solution?
Well, someone, thousands of years ago, either figured it out or came upon it by accident. Something alkaline added to the water will soften the hull and then the hull can easily be separated from the kernel. Eureka when lime, called cal, is added to the water. Another alkaline possibility is ashes, but these are much less frequently used.
So the dried kernels, water and the right amount of alkaline are brought to a boil. Then the pot is removed from the fire, covered and the corn is left to soak overnight. The next morning the water is drained off and the hulls are removed from the kernels with one's fingers. What to we have? What is called nixtamal.
Before corn mills came into use, and this didn't happen until the mid 1920s, the nixtamal had to be ground manually until it became dough, masa. The was done on the floor on grinding stones, metates, a long and laborious task of repeated grinding until the dough took on just the right consistency.
When the masa is ready, it's time to make the tortillas.
Until about 30 years ago, this was always done by hand and it was women's work. They take a small piece of masa and, in a motion that probably has to be learned as a small child, they pat it between their palms into a perfectly round tortilla.
In some regions, such as Veracruz, two circles were cut from fresh banana leaves (now they use plastic), the masa was put between the circles and the tortillas were patted out this way.
Now most tortillas are made commercially at tortillerias. Today's tortilla making machines spew out millions a day. While a tremendous boon to womankind, the industrialization of the tortilla cannot be said to have improved either its taste or consistency. But that's modern life.
For those who do not consider the tortilla a gastronomic treat, it may be that you have not had the opportunity to eat tortillas made on the spot, by hand, from fresh masa. You can equate it to eating homemade bread just out of the oven.
Since most people do not have the time to make their own tortillas, they get them either at the tortillerias or at the supermarket. I get mine from a woman who buys them at a tortilleria and then sells them door to door.
Fresh tortillas are mostly used as an accompaniment to meals. Then as they get slightly drier they are made into dozens of varieties of dishes. We do not use taco shells; in fact they don't exist here. The most popular forms of cooking tortillas are tacos, flautas, quesadillas, enchiladas and chilaquiles .
Tacos
A taco is a rolled or folded tortilla that is stuffed with an almost endless variety of meats, poultry, fish, beans or vegetables. Sometimes the tortillas are just warmed and then wrapped around the filling and other times the tortillas are stuffed and then fried in oil.
They are served with a salsa on the side as well as chopped onion, chopped cilantro and wedges of lime. Mexicans squirt lime juice on just about everything and it's a great addition. You open the taco and put your own choice of garnish on it. Sometimes there is an additional garnish of shredded lettuce and cream which go on top.
For a soft taco, heat the tortillas one at a time in a dry skillet over medium-high heat until the tortillas are soft, about 10 seconds on each side. Spoon the filling down the center, garnish as you wish and roll or fold up (rolling is easier to eat).
For a fried taco, once the taco is filled it is then fried in about ½ inch of medium hot oil.
Flautas
The word means flute which is what a flauta resembles. It is really a thin fried taco which is most often extra long. The length is gotten by overlapping two tortillas.
To make a long flauta, overlap two softened tortillas (see above) about 4 inches. Spoon on about ¼ cup of filling down the center and roll up tight. Secure with toothpicks. Heat about ½ inch oil in a large skillet and fry the flautas until golden brown. Drain well on paper towels.
Enchiladas
Enchiladas, like tacos and flautas, are immensely versatile and come with a myriad of fillings.
At their most basic, they are tortillas which are have been fried, filled, rolled up or folded and then covered with a hot (temperature) sauce and garnished with onions, crumbled cheese and sometime shredded lettuce.
Chilaquiles
This dish is usually served at breakfast. The tortillas are cut into wedges, fried and then mixed with sauce and sometimes cooked shredded chicken. They are served garnished with chopped onion, soured cream and crumbly cheese.
Both enchiladas and chilaquiles can also be baked in the oven and to my
way of thinking are even better. An easy way to entertain is with a
tortilla casserole, called budin azteca, as it can be prepared ahead
of time and baked at the last minute.
Budin Azteca
oil for shallow frying
12 corn tortillas
3 chicken breasts, cooked and shredded
1 recipe salsa verde*
1 cup soured cream (add 1 teaspoon of lime or lemon juice to 1 cup of light cream and let
stand for 20 minutes. Sour cream can also be used.)
1 cup grated mild cheese (Manchego, Chihuahua or Monterey Jack)
Heat the oil in a large skillet and fry the tortillas for 30 seconds on each side. Drain on paper towels. Fry the chicken just until it starts to turn brown and then mix with the salsa verde.
Grease an ovenproof dish and make a layer of 4 overlapping tortillas. Follow with layers of chicken and salsa, cream and cheese, finishing with cheese.
Bake in a preheated oven at 350 F (175 C) for 30 minutes, or until the cheese starts to brown. 8 servings.
Salsa verde
2 serrano chilies, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled
1 ½ pounds tomatillos, husks removed
1 small onion, coarsely chopped
½ cup chopped cilantro
2 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon oil
salt, to taste
Put the chilies and garlic in a medium-size saucepan with 2-3 cups boiling water. Cook for 5 minutes and then add the tomatillos. Cook for 5 more minutes and then drain. Put in a blender with the onions, cilantro and 1 cup of the stock and puree.
Heat the oil over medium heat in a medium-size saucepan and add the puree. Cook for 10 minutes, taste for seasoning and add the rest of the stock. Cook for 10 more minutes.
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